It didn’t take me 1 minute after watching an RC video before I decided to convert the RC Patrol’s Axial Racing Jeep Wrangler SCX10 12.0 inch wheelbase RC truck into a 12.3 wheelbase RC dually flat bed. The video was made by Francois Simard (a friend of mine known as “The Tank” in the RC world) and features him as he creates dually wheels for his Rat Rod RC. He uses some very inexpensive (and in my case, free) Axial Walker Evans wheels ( AX08138 ) to make the functional set of dually rear wheels in which is very innovative.
I tried Francois’ technique by following the video and customizing SCX10, and it worked out pretty well. I decided to make this post to show you guys the steps in which I took to make the modification. There are some differences in the chassis of the SCX10 and the Rat Rod in which The Tank used, and all of this is explained in the post. So, enjoy and I hope you like.
Here is the video of The Tank making the dually wheels in which I used the same technique to make dually wheels for the RC Patrol “Poor Man’s Dually.”
The Walker Evans wheels come in the box with some Axial SCX10 kits and on some of the SCX10 Ready-to-run trucks in their line. You actually will need 6 of these wheels or 3 pair and tires if you want a full matching set. RC Patrol had a set of wheels and tires from the Axial Deadbolt RTR and a set wheels from the Axial SCX10 Jeep Wrangler G6 Kit that was added to the stable in December of 2014, so we had enough wheels to make a whole set for our “Poor Man’s Dually.” I call it “Poor Man’s Dually” because most of the parts were donated by friends or are free in a sense. There also were a few missing parts as well making it even more fitting to the name. But in the end, with the Pro-Line Racing Ford F-250 Super Duty Cab Clear body for the Axial Racing Honcho painted in beautiful metal flake blue, the truck came out to be a pretty nice guise for the rig.
I cut the pipe into two equal length pieces a little under an inch for my application. I wanted the wheels close together to keep from any scrubbing on the shocks. I also used a C clamp and a board in order to press the PVC and rims together firmly and held together for the glue to set well. I used a two part Epoxy glue, but if you have something you think will work better, feel free to try it. If you try this technique, make sure to line the tires up with the tread going in the same direction if you want it to look neat and clean.
The picture below shows the rear wheel of one of the dually sets. You can see the cut-out as shown in the video and the PVC pipe. I did not paint the PVC because I wanted to see if everything was balanced and in working order first. Painting at a later date may take place. 🙂
The wheels and tires fit perfect on the rear but not without the use of Junfac 2.2 Wheel wideners in 19mm length. These allowed me to be able to make this style of dually wheel fit like a glove in the back of the SCX10 with no scrubbing. The extenders are made of aluminum and come in red and blue colors and two lengths, 13mm and 19mm. The 19mm were used on the “Poor Man’s Dually” build.
In the case of the “Poor Man’s Dually” build, we needed to stretch the rear long enough to fit the body and Honcho cage. The Axial Aluminum Pipe kit 6 x 106mm will help you to accomplish this task. Moving the Bottom aluminum links to the top and installing the new longer bottom links make the rear a perfect 12.3 inches like the Honcho. The Jeep Wrangler G6 SCX10 is 12 inches of wheelbase out the box, so this is a necessary step. Once the links are installed, you will have to move the body post/shock mounts back on the chassis to the next hole in the frame rails.
While in the working mood, I went ahead and updated the upper front links to aluminum pipe as well to complete the 4 link setup. The SCX10 Jeep Wrangler kit comes with aluminum lower but plastic upper links although the kit did come with an aluminum steering link. The front links I used to upgrade the upper links are the Axial Aluminum Pipe 6 x 98mm, and then, I used longer rod ends on the lower links to to pitch the axle the way I wanted. This can vary from truck to truck depending on how you would like your rig set up.
Up front there is a recycled front bumper from the Traxxas Summit RC Patrol added to the RC fleet a month ago. Since we installed Pro-Line Racing Ridge-Line bumpers on the Summit, we had the old bumper as a spare that looked pretty nice once matched to the body of the “Poor Man’s Dually.” Another benefit of the Summit bumper is the fact that it already has LED lights installed, two in canisters and two in the bumper itself. The bumper also has a pretty rugged look to it on a heavy-duty level. 🙂 If you want to grab a set of Summit bumpers, they have them online in several places for about $5.39…HERE IS ONE .
Behind the bumper we stepped away from the poor man theme and dropped some coin on a pretty decent servo for the build. Since this truck is pretty much a secondary driver, then we were not considering going over the top, but definitely some good torque and decent speed would be a must. The servo that was chosen for the build is the Savox Digital SC-1256tg . This is RC Patrol’s second Savox servo, and after the first one doing so well, we are looking forward to this one being just as good if not better. The SC-1256tg has some decent stats like 277.7 torque oz-in on 6.0v and can be ran with a standard receiver if needed for 222.2 torque, still higher than the stock Tactic servo in an SCX10. I decided to run the servo without the BEC so that I can see the difference when the BEC is added. Here are a few stats on the servo…
Speed(@4.8V sec/60): .18
Torque(@4.8V oz-in): 222.2
Speed(@6.0V sec/60): .15
Torque(@6.0V oz-in): 277.7
Gear: Titanium & Aluminum
25 Tooth Spline
Pulse Width Frequency: 1520
- Super high 12 bit (4096) resolution and titanium gears.
- Super light-weight.
- Coreless motor
- Titanium gears
- The aluminum case design not only looks good but also allows for cooler and smoother operating temps.
- totally green – from materials to production, these servos are environmentally friendly.
- Ideal for steering applications in 1/8 scale buggies, monster trucks and rock crawlers.
Since I made the front wheelbase a bit longer, there was a need to remove the front brace from the chassis. Since it is not used in this rig to hold the front battery mount in place, it was no problem getting rid of it, and it looks a lot cleaner while providing more room for the servo. I had to cut the posts on the bumper as well so that they do not hit the servo arm as well, but I was still able to mount the bumper nice and snug to the chassis.
For a motor and ESC in this rig, I chose to take the Novak Timbuk2 Brushless/Sensored combo previously in the and re-install it back into this rig. I had tested the set-up on the trail in this rig and then in an Axial Wraith, but in the end, it works much better in a crawler like an SCX10. I installed a 20T pinion on the Ballistic Brushless/Sensored Crawler motor and tuned the drag brake. This system does a great job at giving a bit of wheel speed with the 20T pinion and providing decent torque. Motor temps stay low and run times are awesome on 2s lipo. Most times I run a 4000mah 2s lipo with 20C and get about 45 minutes out of the rig. The combo really has been good to us here at RC Patrol. I don’t have a lot of experience with other brushless sensor combos at the time of this post, so all I can say is that the Timbuk2 combo is working like a charm.
Since the rig has the custom battery tray with space for electronics above the rock guards, I mounted the receiver in the receiver box sideways using two sided tape. This setup fits under the body and cleans up the front of the truck well. I did not do any additional water proofing since this rig will not be ran in the water much, but a little splash will be blocked using the stock box. A balloon can be used to put the receiver inside for added protection or several other waterproofing methods you can find online.
Now with the rig ready to go, it was time to paint the body and add some light canisters and a light bar. The rear cage would have to be assembled as well and mounted to the body when done. Since we only had a few parts for the Honcho cage, I cut and fit them together in a way so that they made a pretty sturdy flatbed with a spare. Let’s take a look at how I got the body looking nice and flake filled.
The Ford F-250 Super Duty Cab from Pro-Line Racing was trimmed and washed for application of the window masks and RC Patrol Logo Masks on the doors.
The vinyl stencils I cut for the side doors on the cab of the body in the picture above were done on a vinyl cutter. These will be used to make black logos of Radio Control Patrol on each door after the blue paint and flakes are sprayed.
To achieve the metal flake, I shot a light coat of pearl blue FasKolor paint over the body and then followed with a coat of silver flakes mixed with FasKoat clear. A few more blue coats and then blue flakes were shot onto the body before being sealed with black to give it a darker appearance in the shade.
The logo turned out pretty good. It was sprayed before taking off the window masks for the full limo tinting.
You can see the levels of flakes in the paint in the pictures. Laying the flakes in different layers gives them a stacked or layered affect that looks nice when the sun shines on the paint job. Now, it’s time for flat-black trimming after tinting the windows.
Here is the final result of the “Poor Man’s Dually” with the optional Blue Tooth speaker in the rear tire instead of a rim and an old iphone3 mounted to the cage for some supportive video playing while riding. I am going to make a nice entertainment console for the iphone3 later down the road, but for now, it is there for fitment.
The Bluetooth speaker is by iHome and fits perfectly in the 1.9 Trepador tire. It will be connected to the phone for audio purposes. The bed was painted silver and attached underneath and at the cab to hold things together during trailing.
Here we have the “Poor Man’s Dually” sitting sweet on the rocks at a local park during it’s first video shoot. The truck is a blast to drive and is only missing some LED lights to fill the canisters. On top I installed a Pro-Line Racing Crawler/Off-Road Light Bar and underneath is a Team Associated XP Police light bar with 9v battery power and two switches for alternating the lights. The Pro-Line Racing light bar has some of the nicest looks on the market. I love the way the PL embossed logos look on the lens of the canisters. You have to do a bit of customizing to the back cover of the lights to get the LED lights through them, but it’s no big deal. The work is worth it for the covers hold the lights in the canister very well. I used the 4 light bucket frame, but there is also a 6 light bucket frame included with the kit.
The front light buckets in the body are Axial Racing light canisters from the Axial Light Bucket Set Black. This kit includes 7 different light buckets in which can be used for a variety of light setups. I have used these canisters on several of the RC Patrol rigs, and they hold up pretty well and look nice with a realistic touch. All in all, this truck has left me satisfied, and it is very capable of being a nice trail truck/crawler. Hope you guys enjoyed the write up and stay tuned for more updates as they come to the “Poor Man’s Dually” from Radio Control Patrol.
After completion of the build, I decided to take it out for a spin to test everything out. Here is the video below…thanks goes out to The Tank for the inspiration, please enjoy and thanks for viewing.