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rcpatrol_featurepost_prolineracingpro2_B_COmpleted

It’s been about a week since the un-boxing of the Pro-Line Racing Pro-2 kit, and I finally have completed the job. We now have a genuine 2WD thoroughbred short course truck in the RC Patrol RC stable. I would like to present to you the Radio Control Patrol’s Pro-Line Racing Pro-2 SCT build by me, DaveM.

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I think this baby looks pretty darn good, and it surely performs as such. The build was very easy, the instructions were on point, and the fun factor was all good. Although the kit comes pre-assembled, there are still a few things in which you have to do yourself. I had researched on the internet and saw an average build time from other RC enthusiasts of about four hours, so we decided to stretch our build out to an hour a day. This allowed me a smooth and relaxed build without having to rush. I also gave myself seven days to complete the build mainly because I knew my idea for the paint scheme would take a bit longer than the four hours average time.

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     During the course of the build, lots of photos were taken, so it would only be polite to share. Follow me as I put together the Pro-Line Racing Pro-2 short course RC truck kit.

  • First things first…I grabbed the Master Bag and Instruction booklet to get the ball rolling.RC-Patrol_Proline-ProSC-Build_PartB_step1
  • Might I add that the instruction booklet is well written and shows everything in clear detail. The actual images for some parts are real size so that you can match your  parts and screws up correctly. There are individual bags inside the Master Bag with letters on them that hold the various parts for the build in an organized manner.RC-Patrol_Proline-ProSC-Build_PartB_step1_instructions
  • Step 1 would include assembling the Pro-2 Front Bumper and attaching it to the front Bulkhead. Bags A and the ProTrac bag as well as Bag B are used to complete these steps.RC-Patrol_Proline-ProSC-Build_PartB_step1_front_bumper (1)
  • The bumper is done. Next is assembling the Bulkhead.RC-Patrol_Proline-ProSC-Build_PartB_step2_front_shock_tower_bulkhead
  • Bulkhead together now on to the next steps.RC-Patrol_Proline-ProSC-Build_PartB_step2_front_shock_tower_bulkhead2
  • Steps 1-3 from the instruction manual are now complete. Now it’s time to start on Step 4 which is Shock-Mounting hardware located in Bag C. This hardware will be inserted into the Front Shock Tower.RC-Patrol_Proline-ProSC-Build_PartB_step3_front_shock_tower_bulkhead_bumper
  • Shock Mounting Hardware installed. (I installed the hardware into outside hole of Shock Tower)RC-Patrol_Proline-ProSC-Build_PartB_step4_front_shock_hardwarer
  • Now, it’s time to grab Bag D and Bag B for the front Extended Body Mount installation onto the Front Shock Tower.RC-Patrol_Proline-ProSC-Build_PartB_step5_body_mountsr
  • Front Body Mount mounted with included hardware to the Front Shock Tower. (Body Posts are set at the 4th hole from top)RC-Patrol_Proline-ProSC-Build_PartB_step5_body_mounts_to_shock_tower
  • Now, the Front Camber Link Rods can be assembled using Bag E and ProTrac Bag.RC-Patrol_Proline-ProSC-Build_PartB_step75_camber_rod_ends
  • Use the manual to match the correct size for the Camber Links before installing the Ball Ends. Adjust the Camber Links as needed by screwing the Rod Ends in and out. Installation of the Pivot Balls finish the Camber Links assembly.RC-Patrol_Proline-ProSC-Build_PartB_step8_camber_rod_ends
  • Camber Links installed onto the Front Shock Tower. (Make sure to face the ridge-marks on the Camber Links towards the driver on both sides and install into middle hole on the Front Shock Tower).RC-Patrol_Proline-ProSC-Build_PartB_step8_camber_rod_ends_inst
  • I complete step 11 which is assembly of the Pro-2 Front Hubs using Bag G.RC-Patrol_Proline-ProSC-Build_PartB_step11_hubs_1
  • I can now can attach the Pro-2 Front Clamping Hexes to the Front Hub using Bag G and Bag H.RC-Patrol_Proline-ProSC-Build_PartB_step12_hexes_1
  • I attach the Pro-2 Front Hub assembly to the Camber Link and ProTrac Arms. Bags F and G will be used. (Mount links to middle hole on Front Hub Assembly)RC-Patrol_Proline-ProSC-Build_PartB_step12_hexes_bug_arm_1
  • Steps 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, and 18 will be simply assembling all the pieces I just built along with the ProTrac Arms and Steering Links ( S. Links have the same assembly process as Camber  Links) to make the front end of the rig. These steps are very simple and lead to the connecting of the Bulkhead to the PRO-2 Performance Chassis and Steering Rack.RC-Patrol_Proline-ProSC-Build_PartB_step12_front-end_to_bulkhead_1
  • Now, I have a front suspension intact and waiting for shocks.RC-Patrol_Proline-ProSC-Build_PartB_step12_front-end_1
  • It’s time for Step 19 which is mounting the Shock Hardware to the Rear Shock Tower. Bag C and ProTrac Bag are used here.(The manual instructs to mount the hardware on the inner holes but I installed them on the outer holes because of the thicker oil in the back. Trial and error…lol)RC-Patrol_Proline-ProSC-Build_PartB_step19_shockmount_rear_1
  • Step 20 is assembling the Rear Camber links which is the same as the Front Camber Links assembly pretty much. In Step 21 I attach them to the Rear Shock Tower. (I make sure to face the ridge-marks on the links towards the driver side on both links and mount to the middle hole of the Rear Shock Tower).RC-Patrol_Proline-ProSC-Build_PartB_step21_cambertotower_rear_1
  •  In Step 22 I mount the Rear Shock Tower to the Pro-2 LCG Chassis.RC-Patrol_Proline-ProSC-Build_PartB_step22_towertochassis_rear_1
  • Next, I handle Steps 23, and 24 which are to install the Body Mounts with included hardware to the Rear Shock Tower. Bags B and D are used. (I mount the posts in the top hole)RC-Patrol_Proline-ProSC-Build_PartB_step22_towertobodymount_rear_1
  • Now, it is time to get the Pro-2 ProTrac Axle Kit together and Out-Drives installed on the transmission. Bag I will help with step 25.RC-Patrol_Proline-ProSC-Build_PartB_step25_outdrives_rear_1
  • Step 26, I attach the Out-Drives to transmission.RC-Patrol_Proline-ProSC-Build_PartB_step25_outdrives_to_tran_rear_1
  • Steps 26 and 27 instructs to assemble the Axles and connect them to the Rear Arms via the Hub Carriers. All bearings and hardware can be found in Bag F, I, and ProTrac Bag. (Connect the ProTrac Arms to the lower hole of the Hub Carrier)RC-Patrol_Proline-ProSC-Build_PartB_step27_arms_carrier_rear_1
  • Step 28 shows how to install the Pro-2 Rear Clamping Hexes and camber assembly. Bag I and Bag J help me with this process. I install the Camber Links in the top middle hole of the Hub Carrier.RC-Patrol_Proline-ProSC-Build_PartB_step28_hexes_1
  • Step 29 requires the removal of 4 screws in which 1 will be re-used for the Spur Gear Cover later.RC-Patrol_Proline-ProSC-Build_PartB_step29_rear_screwremove_1
  • After the previous step the Pro-2 Rear Bumper is installed to the Bumper Bace using Bag K.RC-Patrol_Proline-ProSC-Build_PartB_step30_rear_bumper_1
  • Now, I can complete Step 32 which is Bumper Brace Assembly and mounting of the bumper to the chassis.RC-Patrol_Proline-ProSC-Build_PartB_step31_rear_bumper_mount_1
  • The time to assemble those AWESOME Pro-Line Power Stroke Shocks has come. You get a Front and a Rear set with the Pro-2 kit. This was one of the most exciting parts of the build for me because I have been waiting on a set of these bad boys for a while. These shocks rock and everything I needed to put them together came in the Pro-2 kit.RC-Patrol_Proline-ProSC-Build_PartB_step33_shocks_1
  • Step 33 instructs you to take the Springs off from the Shocks along with the Caps and Spring cups to prepare for filling with shock oil.RC-Patrol_Proline-ProSC-Build_PartB_step33_shocks_2
  • I fill the Shocks with oil, 30wt comes with the kit, but I used 40wt in the rear for a little more stiffness. I used a piece of Styrofoam and pushed the Shock end down into the foam to hold them in place while I filled them with oil.RC-Patrol_Proline-ProSC-Build_PartB_step33_shocks_3
  • After filling the Shocks, I pushed the Shaft in about half way to allow any trapped air bubbles a chance to rise to the top. This can take a little time so patience is key.RC-Patrol_Proline-ProSC-Build_PartB_step33_shocks_4
  • Now, I installed the Caps and bled the Shocks. I install the Springs and Cups then wipe the Shocks clean. Now, I have a set of Front and Rear Pro-Line Racing Power Stroke Shocks ready for installation on the Pro-2 build.RC-Patrol_Proline-ProSC-Build_PartB_step33_shocks_5
  • Now it is time to mount the Shocks to the chassis. I started with the Rear Shocks. (Use the third hole from the inside when mounting the Shock to the ProTrac Arm)RC-Patrol_Proline-ProSC-Build_PartB_step33_shocks_7
  • The Front Shocks are the same steps to install as the rear. (Use the second hole from the inside when mounting the Shock to the ProTrac Arm)RC-Patrol_Proline-ProSC-Build_PartB_step33_shocks_8
  • With the Pro-2 LCG Performance Chassis nearing completion it was time to start putting down battery pads and getting the Servo Link together. Using the Foam Bag, Bag L, and Bag E this step was completed.RC-Patrol_Proline-ProSC-Build_PartB_step36_pads_battery_7
  • The Servo Link is next. The manual has the same illustration for you to follow in making the link the correct size, same as with the Steering and Camber Links.RC-Patrol_Proline-ProSC-Build_PartB_step37_servolink_1
  • I made a test to see how much foam to put in the battery tray and came to find out, for our battery of choice there was no extra foam needed other than the bottom strips that pad the battery from the chassis.RC-Patrol_Proline-ProSC-Build_PartB_step36_pads_battery_8

Now the chassis is complete and ready for RC Patrol’s electronics for the build. I will go through the parts as I install them onto the rig.

  1.      Castle Creations SideWinder SCT Edition with 3800kv motor. RC Patrol chose to get three Robinson Racing 48 pitch pinion gears for our setup, a 16T, 20T and 30T for speed runs. RC-Patrol_Proline-ProSC-Build_PartB_electronics_motor_combo_castle
  2. A close-up of the motor before installation. Castle 1410 3800kv 4 Pole brushless/sensorless motor, capable of 3s lipo power and 100,000 rpm max.RC-Patrol_Proline-ProSC-Build_PartB_electronics_sidewinder__sct_3800kvmotor_castle
  3. Mounting the motor to the Pro-Line Transmission Motor Plate was a breeze as well as lining up the mesh. I was even able to fit the motor fan onto the motor using zip ties. I have heard that it does not fit some 2WD RC’s but I got it to work.RC-Patrol_Proline-ProSC-Build_PartB_electronics_sidewinder__sct_3800kvmotor_castle_2
  4. Here you can see how one of the zip ties had to be put on at an angle instead of the edge of the fan in order to clear, but it worked out good no doubt.RC-Patrol_Proline-ProSC-Build_PartB_electronics_sidewinder__sct_3800kvmotor_castle_3
  5. Now, let’s take a look at the Sidewinder SCT Edition ESC with fan. The unit fired up and worked great for the test runs, but we will see how it holds up over time and definitely make a review after some time in the field with the setup. One thing to note is that the wires that lead to the receiver are nice and long, so the ESC can be mounted in a variety of locations. You will need a Y-adapter so that you can power both of the fans at the same time. I connected them to Channel 3 on the receiver which was unused.RC-Patrol_Proline-ProSC-Build_PartB_electronics_sidewinder__sct_esc_castle
  6. I mounted the ESC on the chassis and ran the wires down the side of it along the sides of the battery slot.RC-Patrol_Proline-ProSC-Build_PartB_electronics_sidewinder__sct_esc_castle_1
  7. Another shot of the ESC install.RC-Patrol_Proline-ProSC-Build_PartB_electronics_sidewinder__sct_esc_castle_2
  8. There is room under the ESC mount on the chassis to tuck any wires in which are too long, this makes for a much cleaner look. I stuffed the rest of the Y-harness’ length under the ESC mount. RC-Patrol_Proline-ProSC-Build_PartB_electronics_sidewinder__sct_esc_castle_3
  9. Next, I installed the Servo and the Servo Arm put together earlier in Step 37 of the manual. I also installed an aluminum Servo Horn onto the Servo before it was installed. Make sure to do this because clearance is limited once the Servo is installed onto the chassis. RC Patrol chose the Savox SW-0230MG Waterproof HV Metal Gear Digital Servo because of its waterproof feature as well as the metal gears and price of under $50.RC-Patrol_Proline-ProSC-Build_PartB_electronics_servo_savox230
  10. Now, it was time to install the receiver and wire everything up to it. RC Patrol chose the Tactic TTX300 for the cost and the user selectable 3rd channel. I mounted the receiver right after the Servo onto the chassis with two sided tape. I may go back later and water proof the Servo for protection if we feel the need.RC-Patrol_Proline-ProSC-Build_PartB_electronics_ttx300_rec

After the installation of the electronics, I was only left with the body to finish which we already had planned on taking a few days to complete for we wanted to make it a nice paint job with LED installed as well for a little night-time bashing. Before I go into the details on the body, let’s take a look at the completed chassis with electronics installed.

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Now, it was time to start the planned paint job. For this step, the first thing to do is make out a plan if your are doing something technical or tricky. If you are just going with one color and decals, things will be much more simple. RC Patrol chose to go with a more complicated paint scheme requiring the use of masking tape and vinyl cutouts for stencils. I was responsible for painting as well.

Let’s flow through the painting process quickly to show how I got the finished result.

  1. I set the body out and then examined it for defects. Next I went to wash it with degreaser detergent. I washed both sides so that there were no finger prints. All of these steps were done with latex gloves on to prevent finger prints during the process. Use of a sponge with a rough side is good to scuff up the bodies inside a bit to help the paint stick well. Do not scuff the window areas because there will be scuff marks on them.RC-Patrol_Proline-ProSC-Build_PartB_flotek_body_1
  2. The Flo-Tek SC body from Pro-Line Racing is a very detailed body with a lot of cut-outs and curves. It makes for a challenging and fun painting experience indeed. I masked our body up and prepared for the painting. An airbrush was used for all the paint work except the white base which was done with a rattle-can of White Base coat. This coat will help the colors pop.RC-Patrol_Proline-ProSC-Build_PartB_body_flotek
  3. I used blue painter’s tape for the areas on the hood and bed that would be black later. The stripes were a mix of cut vinyl and masking tape. The first color I sprayed on was Florescent Yellow, very thin and allowed it to dry, then I sprayed on a Metallic Gold, very lightly. RC-Patrol_Proline-ProSC-Build_PartB_flotek_body_2
  4. After the Gold dried I went with a Pearl Metallic Orange to give the gold a more orange hint than it has on it’s own. This made the color pop more and looked awesome the minute I sprayed a coat under the gold in a few areas. I did not go for full coverage with the orange because I would be going back with more gold under it to finish the body color later.RC-Patrol_Proline-ProSC-Build_PartB_flotek_body_3
  5. It was time to take a look at the body then paint the stripes, Pro-Line logo and center of the body Black. The outside of the hood and trunk will be top painted with Flat black for a contrasting look. The Pro-Line Racing Logo was painted on the underside using vinyl I cut myself. The roof was screaming for some good old branding and what better than the logo of the makers of this tough SCT.RC-Patrol_Proline-ProSC-Build_PartB_flotek_body_4
  6. I took a look at the progress before I started trimming out the vent holes and the rest of the body. I also added a Castle logo to the underside of the bed panel using vinyl again and painted it Metallic Silver. I left the back panels of the bed clear so that the quality motor installed in the rig can be seen clearly. RC-Patrol_Proline-ProSC-Build_PartB_flotek_body_5

After all the hours, I built a pretty sick Pro-2 SC for RC Patrol’s RC fleet. I added decals and lights to the front and back of the rig, 12 total before preparing for a nice photo shoot to end this post. Final thoughts on the build are listed below as well as the final photos.

PROS

  •      Nice discount on the parts of the kit when bought together in the Pro-2 Kit.
  •      Solid Performance parts and chassis setup in this Kit with a top notch transmission out back.
  •      Proven performance from a reputable company that is all about RC and has been around for a while.
  •      Ease of assembly and detailed instructions.
  •      Options to install whatever electronics you want making for a custom rig when complete.
  •      Ready for the track, backyard, or bash spot.
  •      Able to handle the most powerful electronics setup for an SCT

CONS

Thanks for reading and I hope you enjoyed the write-up and photos. We at Radio Control Patrol would like to thank Pro-Line Racing for shipping our kit promptly and for having such wonderful customer service as well.

We are shooting videos this week so stay tuned for a first run and bash of our Pro-2 SC from Pro-Line Racing. Please visit their website to check out the latest Pro-Line Racing has to offer for your RC.

I would like to personally thank all of the fans, followers, and subscribers whom follow and enjoy my work. Every single person is greatly appreciated and I hope you stick around as Radio Control Patrol grows.

Peace,

DaveM

P.S. : Here are photos of the finished product for your enjoyment. The stock Pro-Line F-11Wheels and Blockade Tires are supreme on the Pro-2 but were a little dirty from the test runs so I installed the secondary bashing set for the final photos in this post because they look so wicked. The Pro-Line Interco Super Swamper SC 2.2/3.0 tires pre-mounted on F-11 Wheels really brought out the beastial qualities this rig has, in an all terrain form made from the Legendary M2 Compound.RC-Patrol_Proline-ProSC-Build_complete_7_pedestal

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RC-Patrol_Proline-ProSC-Build_complete_2RC Patrol wanted to rep Pro-Line on the roof of the Pro-2 SC so I hooked it up. The P-L has a metallic gold gradient in it I am sure you will notice in the videos to come. 🙂

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RC-Patrol_Proline-ProSC-Build_complete_1_lights3 white, 1 Blue, and 1 Orange LED per headlight and two in the back top vent area make for a nice light setup IMO. They also have a flashing mode with 4 options. I kinda wanted to do something different than the stock decal up front to give the Pro-2 a little more flavor.

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5 thoughts on “RC Patrol – R.C.P. News – Pro-Line Racing – Pro-2 SC 1/10 Short Course RC Truck Kit – Part 2

  1. thats a SWEET pro2 ! check out my Team Blog on Proline-racing.com for some mods for the pro2 to help it on slick tracks and racing conditions!

  2. I love this truck I am so looking forward to building my one , don’t have it yet but not far of , I race a losi 10 4×4 sct and find it just to heavy for my liking so how does this thing jump ,and congratts on a job well done dude

  3. It jumps well and handles like a champ. I can’t seem to find any flaws in the truck yet except for the need to upgrade to the aluminum blocks up front. The plastic ones have let the pin jump out on some rather hard bashing, but it was understandable since we were pushing the truck very hard when it happened.

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